Versions from Asia have caused skin irritation

A "low cost" fashion concept, this is what has been the re-entry Mango: 100 clothes at discounted prices from 9 euros. The Spanish sign is "alternative channels" so that his clients "can continue to enjoy fashion." But these approaches which multiply do not the case of the French weavers (59.000 employees), the source of the chain of clothing, already struggling to cope with the Asian competition. Last year, production fell by 18, and the retreat continues on to this textile sector whose turnover stood at 10 billion. "The recessive effect is multiplied when back the stream upstream, analysis Gildas Minvielle, French Institute of fashion. There is a reorientation of the purchases to countries with lower costs, because the price became the priority of consumer.

Professionals have go to the Salon premiere Vision until Friday. They present their new fabrics to marks fashion, H & M to Hermès, for collections seront store in September 2010. The opportunity to measure the State of mind of the donor of order, while the flashers are red. In France, the clothing consumption has dropped from 8.8 in July despite the balances, and exports of 7. He was not sure that the room is full. The previous had seen the number of visitors fall by 18. "Companies such as H & M, C & A or Japanese brands who sent a hundred designers and buyers have revised their numbers downward, up to 40." "But in the end, they are all present," provides Philippe Pasquet, the President of the fair.

Seduce with an original offer

This is that these signs harvest samples, before drawing the collections and then to launch the industrial orders. "Brands are very cautious, because the activity plunged by an average of 20 to 30 since the beginning of the year." "At the time, most will propose limited collections," admits Dominique de la Tournelle, President of the Executive Board of Bruno Saint Hilaire, specialist of costumes for men. Thus, many will reuse the tissues of last season.

The challenge for the weavers is thus to attract them with an original offer, insists Pierre Schmidt, the CEO of Philea, a small upper Rhine, whose clients are called Zara, Caroll, or Benetton. "There is a need to image." The trivialization of the market that has resulted from massive imports led to a depletion of know-how. "It must build on the creation," repeats the pattern.

Innovation is also the priority for Trouillet (Saône-et-Loire), which has order swatch, Lacoste, or Armor-Lux donors. "All our strategy is to create new products in terms of colour, drawing, notes Olivier Bochard, its leader." Clothing is a favourite purchase. The novelty is selling. We cannot beat us on the price.

Problem: these techniques are copied, and sometimes poorly copied, such as the wire shape memory developed by Philea in 2007. Versions from Asia have caused skin irritation. The company has responded by launching a program of R & D for gainer this thread. Their cost, "these innovations remain accessible, assure Pierre Schmidt, a tariff on average 6 to 7 euros per square metre." "It is possible to create different fabrics at minimal price."Only way, according to these experts, to save the market.