Service unfortunately not always smiling

The kickoff of the Christmas markets (five in different points of the city) has been given in the fever to Colmar. A party which will continue until January 2, day of the Epiphany. An ideal time to discover this city on the typical architecture, the well-stocked kitchen local and regional is not any charm.

Descendant of the train, just cross the street and push the door of the Hotel Bristol to enter into the heart of the matter. Between the appointment of hunting (starry Michelin) and the hostel typically Alsatian atmosphere, the choice is agonizing. In Rendez-vous de Chasse, gastro, Julien Binz, ex-second of Marc Haeberlin at the Inn of Ill arrived last may, lists the appropriate map by combining noble on regional fund products: creamy terrine of foie gras of goose cooked natural and used to spoon, coast and ris of veal, pan-fried mushrooms, apples Maxime and fatty juice (perfect cooking and said taste), and deer of Alsace hazelnuts roasted, grilled, confit of prunes, polenta sauce and hot, although season wine reduction. Room without fancy held with kindness by Jean-Marc Derwinner, sommelier, old road of the House.

The hostel, the Alsatian tradition is at attention! Pie crust, wine salad (cervelas and cheese), beef coarse salt and raw vegetables, great sauerkraut with its full shank, etc. Christophe Kirschhofer and his brigade bétonnent effectively regionalist inventory... and any Colmar scroll table!

Jean-Yves Schillinger, the other star of Colmar, scraping of the local gastronomy, hair long faced General misunderstanding, is today leased on any part. His JY table's, located in the heart of the charming neighbourhood of Petite Venise, seduced by its elegance than the fineness of its cuisine. Precision and technique make appear the kitchen simple, but that delicacy behind each dish! Beef tail ravioles and foie gras with crisp artichokes, pluma Iberian pig way Dönner and wok of vegetables, pan-fried Royal scampi in olive oil with Japanese beans in wasabi sauce in the white porto... Service, unfortunately, not always smiling.

Trucks preferred

A former student of Joël Robuchon (period Jamin), associated with the former King of the crock, Francis Staub, opened a month ago, in addition to his JY's, a flamboyant brewery, the theatre, staged by Miriam Sturm (atmosphere 1900, beautiful materials and objects items). The carts of hors d'oeuvres (2.50 euros Base: egg jelly, celery Remoulade, herring, vitello tonnato...) and desserts are preferred. And the mashed robuchonienne black pudding or kidney of veal and spaetzle. Service until 23: 30. To see and be seen, it's here!

Close to the old House of Colmar, the workshop of painter of Loïc Lefebvre, Chief comes from the South (Jacques Chibois, the Pourcel brothers) eighteen months ago, enjoys a good buzz. However, will be Chief prunes somewhat "creative" cuisine, suffering from an overflow of flavours. As this filet of beef, cream of celery and cabbage, pan-fried squid and infusion of lemon juice, fricassée too convoluted. On the other hand, less complex desserts are delicious and the formula lunch a case.

Near the Cathedral and its market of Christmas, nestled at the bottom of an alley, the brewery side Court, is a stop petitioned rescue hot spot for lunch. Benoît David leader juggling between daily suggestions from the market and a map which are traditional in the country. Can eating mushrooms ravioli in broth of small vegetables and a tarte, attack live a hearty bite to the Queen, fresh noodles - Alsatian classic-, or even share two a rib and his marrow.

Finally at two steps of JY's, the little Venice, charming wine decor a bit retro but light, with rigour by a young couple of innkeepers, is worth the stop. On enjoying simple and lively cuisine. Standards, salad of Munster, snails, shank salad and potatoes and the Alsatian, are coupled with more current suggestions.